May 19, 2024

Well so far so good. We’re still married. The boat’s in one piece and we didn’t throw the dog overboard – yet. She’s actually been doing real well but doesn’t like the rocking and pounding when we get into rougher seas. 

We stayed at Hazard Marina from May 9 – 12. Then anchored in a little oxbow bay in 12’ of water. It was very peaceful except for the very vocal frogs that periodically interrupted the perfectly still night. Sunsets have been quite nice too.

On the 13th, we motored to Southport, SC and grabbed a fee dock at a place called Provisions. It’s a restaurant a lot like Berts but without music. They were so hospitable that we stayed until the 16th. Another reason we stayed is that a Looper Harbor Host, Robert and Kay Creech lived on the river a block away. We were invited to doctails at their house with another looper and we all shared stories. Still another reason for staying from the 13th to 16th was the weather. We had days of very strong winds, rain and heavy seas. It blew so hard we lost our AGLCA burgee one night and will have to order a new one. And there was still one more reason we weren’t eager to leave. Provisions made the best painkiller this side of BVI. They used Prussers rum. They also have great crabcakes. They were a bit spicy for Diane but I ordered them every day we were there.

On the morning of the 16th we awoke to sunshine and 10 mph winds so we bid adieu to Southport, SC and motored to Adam’s Creek to a nice anchorage recommended on Active Captain.

On the 17th, we left Adam’s Creek and headed up Alligator River to mm 100. On our way we stopped for fuel  at Dowry Marina, a very friendly, small marina that also had a little store. They only had a few grocery items but as luck would have it, they had beer. Not only beer but the kind I drink. Made in NC, Dirtbag Ales is a cold brew mocha porter. First dark beer we found on this trip. Things are looking up 

On Saturday, the 18th we hoisted anchor early to make the long trek up the Alligator River and across the notorious Abermarle Sound. It was raining and the overcast was so low it almost seemed like a fog. Speaking of fog, our windows, especially the windshield kept fogging up. Diane had to keep wiping them so could see where we were going. The waves were 3 feet with occasional bigger ones. It was very slow going and at one point we were hit so hard with a big one that all our drawers flew open (boat’s drawers, not ours). Stuff flew around the cabin. I challenge anyone to try to go to the bathroom while the boat is rocking and bucking wildly. You can end up with bruises where you normally would not get bruises. Another “treat” on that crossing were the crab traps. They were everywhere, hundreds. Even in the 20’ deep water. We couldn’t get away from them and it was hard to see them in the rain and heavy seas until they were right in front of us. 

Well we finally made it to the Pasquotank River just South of Elizabeth City. Elizabeth City is near the entry to the Dismal Swamp. Stayed on the hook and started planning our journey through the DS. It’s cold (50s) and damp with no hint of sunshine. 

 

Enjoying Crab and a painkiller